[REVIEW] Bill Cunningham began in 1966 shooting in New York street fashion, called "Street beat originator." He several decades, rain or shine in the streets, with an old Nikon capture the tide. Monster Anna Wintour, said: "We have a dress for Bill."
As early as the Sartorialist, Garance Doré, Jak & Jil, who used a digital camera to capture modern men and women dress in the streets, easily won the Wo million hits on the blog before, the legendary New York Times photographer Bill Cunningham from 1966 to a $ 35 worth of simple cameras to capture passers-by anyway, record high social phenomena. He's called "On The Street" weekly column called New York City for decades to visual Ukiyo-e. Eighty years Guo humble low-key, he is known in the harsh beauty of the eyes version of Vogue editor Anna Wintour, but it is one of the most attractive gentleman, "All women have the capacity to Bill Wyatt, he was the only one notice or care about the people you dress. "
Bill Cunningham was born in Boston, a conservative Irish Catholic family. Best stay at Harvard for a semester, 19-year-old, he dropped out to New York by his uncle introduced into the high-end department store Bonwit Teller's advertising department office. His intention, as one love women regardless of family strongly opposed the Bill, to resign in the east of 52 Street to find a simple vacant attic, used as a hat studio and residence. Soon swarms of high society woman, do not mind the dark narrow stairs to climb, without exception, become his loyal customers.
The early 1950s, Bill Cunningham enlisted. 53 years back in New York re-cap the old business operations, and are Women's Wear Daily (WWD, "Women's Wear Daily"), John Fairchild, publisher of the time to explore, as a column reporters. Although Bill Cunningham before any work has never been published Guo, unique eye of John Fairchild found abundant curiosity and observation can be made of Bill Cunningham is the only. Bill never Zuoshou office empty, he went out a circle, back to pen the letter by the reins, endless supply of wonderful stories.
Bill Cunningham is the little-known designers were also Azzedine Alaïa and Jean Paul Gaultier introduced the first correspondent to the United States. His foresight of the trend, if the winter conference of the trend of a kind of interested in next season's conference, these trends will become the talk of the mouth of everyone. Bill has always been faithful to his own aesthetic vision. The party conference in Paris, he saw André Courrèges simple avant-garde design, he decided that this is the fashion revolution in the future. When the "Women's Wear Daily" published on the people do not want to publish his opinion, insisted Yves Saint Laurent is worth written about the master, Bill Cunningham decided to resign, switch to the "Chicago Tribune" 's.
Bill Cunningham the real beginning of career, friends began David Montgomery, where he received an Olympus Pen-D half-size camera. He tried to use this camera records the value of $ 35 bridge show, and street people in a variety ways for designers to work with their own different interpretations made. He realized that the Vogue and Women's Wear Daily that the media also published similar photos over the years, their vision is limited to the upper class elite figures. And Bill Cunningham have eyes only for fashion, only the unique personal style of dress, his characters and their corresponding social status, not be considered complete, turn a blind eye.
Bill Cunningham year round in the 57th Street and Fifth Avenue, near the corner of Tiffany's stationed, to capture passers-dress. One day, he presented to the New York Times editor Arthur Gelb a woman dressed in nutria fur coat photo. Bill was completely coat the shoulder is cut to attract skilled, had not been noted down the brim of a hat, but still faint graceful, it is low-key recluse star Greta Garbo. In the same street corner, Bill left the camera has no intention of it anyway, including Mrs. Kennedy, the Spanish queen, and even sexy Hollywood star Farrah Fawcett. Arthur Gelb immediately closed the next day at an unprecedented half-length silhouette was published in these streets. This photographer Bill Cunningham's career, is an important turning point, he realized that the real news point, not in the designer's showroom, but in the streets, the pedestrian street is the dress.
Bill Cunningham's most photos never published. He just try to use their cameras to record the moment he considers important. For example, he began shooting the first gay parade, he also recorded the 1960 Central Park Nianqing hippie gathering photos, spectacular, wearing flowers, dressed from the mother and grandmother out of the suitcase in the Amoy antique clothes, lying in lawn. For him, this is not only stylish, but the silhouette and the reflection of social change. He ignored the hard road, came a few hours train ride to Washington to attend Obama's inauguration of the shooting public. Bill Cunningham admitted he is concerned not just silk costumes, more of a dress behind the mentality of the people and social change. Last year, he will be welcomed to the French Ministry of Culture, Arts and Letters awarded the Knight of the Order. City high-end department store Bergdorf Goodman also the theme of Bill Cunningham's works decorate windows, salute him.
Please listen to the industry and Bill Cummingham lens character of his description:
Designer Oscar de la Renta:
Bill Cunningham recorded the last four New York City fifty years of the entire visual history. And he himself so low-key carefully, I know nothing about his life, in addition to his bike broken bike.
Stylist, Harper's Bazaar editor before Polly Mellen:
Bill Cunningham took a lot of pictures for me. Most of the time I did not know he shot me, this is so deserve. I remember he had quite a time making my feet, one pair of fashionable Rei Kawakubo designed mosaic fox pompon shoes. He was fascinated with shoes. He has the original design of any very fascinating.
Details magazine former artistic director Lesley Vinson:
My hair was dyed pink unknown punk musicians, not many people look at me, in addition to Bill. He asked me, why are you the same clothes in plastic wrap? I told him fully into the fan. I grew up in Detroit in the Midwest, Bill is on my mind just informed, discerning New Yorker model. Then I realized, people like him, is only a million people in the.
The door, the socialite Gloria Vanderbilt:
Bill Cunningham photographs, he will transfer his energy to you. You feel this energy, then you have to respond. I treasure his photos. My son Anderson (CNN-known current affairs news show host Anderson Cooper) is Bill's favorite photo shoot for me, I wore Adolfo grand evening, holding feather fan goes on.
Well-known stylist, Details magazine former editor Ronnie Cooke Newhouse:
I told Bill, there is Annie Flanders, Lesley Vinson, who founded the Details magazine, I will become one of his close friends. We went to the European concept of show, people have a car, but the two of us to walk in the torrential rain in the show, completely soaked my shoes, just into a pool of mud. Bill has comforted me, "Son, you should never fall into the trap of the rich." I sometimes complain about the last row in the show could not see anything. Bill said, "All those who dare to speak the truth bluntly in the last row." This will be like in the film Life Is Beautiful scenes: We strive in such a bad state, while the Bill makes you feel you are so lucky !
Visionaire magazine founder, Harper's Bazaar Art Director Stephen Gan:
I first met Bill Cunningham, in 1986. I was 18 years old, Parsons School of Fashion students. One day, I was walking in the streets of Soho, he beat up my photos. I was then dressed in the along the lines of Jean Paul Gaultier to design their own hands to do the following sets of pants lace skirt. Bill took a few pictures, then he said, "Son, you look at the past like hungry look, let me buy a piece of cookie to you." He took me to the coffee shop, bought a cup of coffee and cookies to me . I told him my mother against me in art school to study. Bill said, all right, you move out to live, and finding a job. You take the coin, called Details magazine Annie Flanders. I have done it.
After some time, Bill told me that I went to Paris, all my age want to succeed in the fashion industry to get the children to dip in Paris for some time. I went to Paris to stay for nine months. Bill will use his invitation to secretly sneak into the show with my view show. One time I left the show, I felt in my pocket any more. Is a $ 50-Bill's bills do not pay attention while I secretly go into.
Details magazine co-founder Annie Flanders:
Bill always forget to remind me not to fall into the trap of the rich, I learned from him the line of ethical standards and the bottom line. Himself personally, never from our magazine (Details) received a single cent. We published the first issue of the magazine, gave him a check as a reward. His pieces, returned. He insisted if we charge money, he would not help us. Founder of the magazine at that time, each part of the proceeds received magazine. I had to record the Bill as we have done the same thing every. Every time we get a new publisher, I would say. "The number of characters, Bill deserved reward."
Advance bought the Details magazine party, I SI Newhouse to the new owners should have to explain some of Bill, then this is a fairly large figures. SI Newhouse Bill, please accept my request for the money, so as not to snowball. Bill just Jianzhi refused. As far as I know, the money still hanging in the account.